Trekking Britain

Bleaklow from Old Glossop

 

Difficulty : HardDuration : 5.5 HrsDistance : 15 Km

 
Starting from the oldest part of Derbyshire mill town Glossop, this trek takes you over what some refer to as the most inhospitable terrain in Britain. This trek is most certainly one of those best kept for a clear day with a good weather forecast. Those who love rare wild places that are untouched by human interaction and search for solitude when walking in the hills will love this walk. The Bleaklow plateau is a huge bleak desert of peat hags and groughs edged by rocky gritstone cliffed cloughs. The odd outcrops of the Wain Stones and Hern Stones provide great interests as does the saddening yet fascinating wreckage of the B-29 Boing Superfortress on Higher Shelf Stones. This walk is not the longest in the Peak District but is by far one of the hardest due to the pathless and rugged terrain. Navigation skills are vital as are the right equipment. Despite the dark reputation of Bleaklow, it is a unique place that can provide a very different and satisfying days walk, but care and preparations are vital in bad weather.


Full route description for this walk

 

The start of this walk isn't the easiest place to find if you are not familiar with Glossop. The easiest way to find the start is to follow the A57 out of Glossop towards the Snake Pass. Just before you leave the town and after a small roundabout there is a road on the left called Manor Park Road that is sign posted to Old Glossop and Manor Park. After about half a mile there is a road on the right called Shepley Street, if you continue to the end of this road you'll get to a turning place, parking is allowed here although do bear in mind to stay as far over towards the stream side as possible so lorries can turn in the turning area.

Follow the rough track that is a continuation of the road and follows the banks of the river. You will pass a few buildings and farm on the left. After about a kilometre you will get to a stile over the wall on the left hand side of the track. Go over this stile and then turn right following the path uphill for the start of the ascent of the Lightside ridge. The path is very obvious at first and is also steep in places but the terrain itself is easy going underfoot. The terrain as you ascend Lightside will go from grass field to heather and then eventually as you reach the top of the ridge you will suddenly be in the wonderful world of peat on the Bleaklow Plateau.

Old Glossop Track

Old Glossop Track

Yellowslacks Valley

Yellowslacks Valley

The Bleaklow Plateau is very similar to its neighbour Kinder in the distance. Most of the plateau is above 2000FT high and at one point near Blealow Stones is actually the furthest point east in England over 2000FT high, a fact I didn't believe until I researched it myself. It is often referred to as most strenuous and toughest walking terrain in Britain. Many hill walkers, even Alfred Wainwright, actually hated the place. You either love it o hate it though and lots of people love it. A huge expanse of boggy peat and outstanding stone formations, the hags and groughs of Bleaklow are impossible to navigate in bad weather. I myself have been lost on Bleaklow and it was one of the worst experiences I have ever had in my life. The area is most certainly somewhere that has to be taken seriously. However all that said Bleaklow has its charms in its solitude, its wildlife and its amazing outcrops of rock. The one thing that differs it from Kinder is its lack of footpaths and people. It is a wilderness.

When you reach the top of the Lightside ridge the path becomes fairly faint and disappears in places. You can use the ridge as an indicator to where you should be heading or alternatively, to your right there are huge cliffs dropping into the Yellow Slacks valley. Using this edge may be a useful navigating using the 'hand rail' technique, in other words keeping a linear object to one side and following it. After walking along the path for about a kilometre the path then heads East towards the top of the Yellow Slacks valley where the Yellowslacks Brook falls sharply from Dowstone Clough into the valley underneath a famous outcrop called Dog Rock.

Wain Stones

Wain Stones

Bleaklow Head

Bleaklow Head

The path now follows the left side of Yellowslacks Brook for about a kilometre passing the splendid waterfalls and then disappears into the quagmire of peat as things start to get seriously boggy. What I tend to do at this point is head for Hern Stones. These stones make a for a great place to assess your next move in bad weather and also get you up high so in good weather you can see where your heading next, which is not always possible when walking through deep peat groughs. So to get to the Hern Stones simply keep following the stream as it creates a straight hand rail for you to follow to the Hern Stones which are located about a kilometre South East of the Yellowslacks Brook waterfalls.

From Hern Stones on a good day you should be able to look North and see Bleaklow Head and most visibly the Wain Stones. Notice also the bulk of higher ground to the South West of Hern Stones which is Higher Shelf Stones that will be visited later in the walk. To get to the Wain Stones and Bleaklow Head you have two options. You will need to return to the Hern Stones after you have detoured out to Bleaklow Head, in bad weather I would suggest a discreet Hansel and Gretel approach and create natural markers for yourself to help on your return. The most exciting way to Bleaklow Head is to had North and very slightly east across the boggy terrain straight to the Wain Stones. However another option is the Pennine Way, which although not visible from the Wain Stones is actually creeping through a deep stone filled grough about 200 metres to the East. The Pennine Way will lead you directly North then to Bleaklow Head. Bleaklow Head is a strange summit with just a huge pile of rocks for a cairn, no trig point and a huge wooden stake which seems to have sit idle for some yeas. The Wain Stones are situated only about 30 metres to the west of Bleaklow Head.

Higher Shelf Stones

Higher Shelf Stone

Overexposed Memorial

Overexposed Memorial

To head towards the next objective of the walk Higher Shelf Stones, you should retrace your steps back to the Hern Stones either by the direct route or by the Pennine Way. Using the Hern stones as a stepping stone between Bleaklow Head and Higher Shelf Stones means that you have a recognisable feature and also have a possible familiar escape route if required via Yellowslacks. Once you reach the Hern Stones you can assess the situation again and in good weather as said before looking South West from here the higher ground of Higher Shelf Stones and its white summit trig point are visible. In bad weather head in a South to South West direction for about 600 metres to reach the highest land of Higher Shelf Stones.

Higher Shelf Stones provides some surprising views especially westwards on a good day. At 621M high the highest point is marked with a trig point. Higher Shelf Stones is however not famous for its surprising views but more for its sad memories of those who lost there lives just 25 metres East to North East from the trig point. Once you find the crash site of the US Air Forces Boeing B-29 Superfortress 'Overexposed' there is no mistaking it for any other. The vast area that the crash site covers and the amount of remaining wreckage is relative to the enormous size of these huge war planes. Next to the wreckage is a memorial plaque that reads..

"IN MEMORY Here lies the wreckage of B-29 Superfortress "Overexposed" of the 16th. photographic reconnaissance squadron USAF which tragically crashed whilst descending through cloud on 3rd November 1948 killing all 13 crew members. The aircraft was on a routine flight from RAF Scampton to American AFB Burtonwood. It is doubtful he crew ever saw the ground."

Plane Engine Wreckage

Plane Engine Wreckage

Under Carraige Wreckage

Under Carraige Wreckage

From the crash site you now need to head in a South East direction. This will take you over tough ground with plenty of boggy areas and dangerous holes covered by long grasses. You have two options now. You could keep heading in this direction until you meet the Pennine Way which you will after about a kilometre and then follow it South for until you reach the top of the Doctor's Gate path. The other way which is great in good weather is to not get as far as the Pennine Way and head down into Crooked Clough over rough pathless terrain making sure to cross the clough to the South side before it gets too wide, from that South side a path skirts the top of the valley and eventually reaches a huge gate at a messy part of the Doctor's Gate path. Whichever way you choose to go down or round Crooked Clough you will end up at this point where these two paths meet, from here you can look right up Crooked Clough, in front to Higher Shelf Stones above Gathering Hill or down the Doctor's Gate valley.

Crooked Clough

Crooked Clough

Shelf Moor from Doctors Gate

Shelf Moor from Doctors Gate

Follow the clear and obvious Doctor's Gate path down the valley. It is about 3 kilometres until you reach Mossy Lea Farm, the path is obvious all the way down except for one tricky bit about a kilometre before Mossy Lea Farm where the path seems to disappear into a bog. Just before it disappears into the bog take a path that stems off just before the bog and goes above by about 10 metres the normal path, which you'll see below suddenly appear again out of the bog. This path your now on will link up with the normal path further up. You will pass Mossy Lea Farm and then follow the track all the way back past the Lightside stile and back to Old Glossop.

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Photos taken on this walk

 

These photo's are taken from a trip with Nicky on September 9th 2006.
Nicky On Old Glossop Track Ncky And Max On Lightside Nicky And Max On The Dog Rock V iew Down Yellowslacks Valley Yellowslacks Brook Yellowslacks Brook On Dowstone Clough Max In Dowstone Clough Myself And Max On Hern Stones The Wain Stones Bleaklow Head Max Nicky And Myself At Higher Shelf Stones Summit Trig Point Wreckage Site Of The World War II US Boing B-29 Superfortress World War II US Boing B-29 Superfortress Memorial Cross Of Rememberance For Superfortress Victims Engine At Wreckage Site Of The World War II US Boing B-29 Superfortress Landing Gear At Wreckage Site Of The World War II US Boing B-29 Superfortress Crooked Clough From Alport Low Fascinating Light Formation In Sky From Doctors Gate Fascinating Light Formation In Sky From Doctors Gate Distant Hills From Doctors Gate Crooked Clough From Doctors Gate Shelf Moor From Doctors Gate Sunset Over Shire Hill Sunset Over Shire Hill And Shelf Brook From Doctors Gate

 

These photo's are taken from a trip by myself on December 11th 2004.
Looking Back Towards Old Glossop View Across Shelf BrookTo Coldharbour Moor Stile Over Wall To Lightside Footpath Local Hounds On Lightside Yellowslacks Brook Waterfall Yellowslacks Brook Yellowslacks Brook Falls Peat Grough On Dowstone Clough Peat Grough On Dowstone Clough Hern Stones Peat Grough On Shelf Moss Red Grouse At Bleaklow Head Approaching Bleaklow Head Bleaklow Head Mountain Hare In Distance Mountain Hare In The Peat Hags Mountain Hare World War II Plane Wreckage Peat Hags Near Bleaklow Near Bleaklow Stones Bleaklow Stones Sunshine Through Bleaklow Stones Bleaklow Stones The Anvil At Bleaklow Stone Grinah Stones From Bleaklow Stones View South East From Bleaklow Stones




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